Autumn brings fall of leaves, and… the fall of acorns, those nutty oak tree fruits prized by squirrels and… pigs? Across the Atlantic, in a special region of Portugal and Spain, black Iberian pigs will soon begin devouring acorns. These pigs are being fattened for slaughter, released to graze on the rich land of la dehesa, a special region of the Iberian Peninsula known to help create the most expensive and sought-after cured meat in the world: jamón ibérico, or, in English, Iberian ham. But, what is it? Why does it cost $4500 for a single leg? And, what makes it so special? 

La Tierra

As noted in the book The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food by Dan Barber, the foundation of the quality and taste of jamón ibérico comes from the land itself — la dehesa. 

After the Christian Reconquista of the 13th Century, the area was designated for wool production and grazing lands for Merino sheep. The lush forests were cleared for grazing and the remaining oak trees were few and far between. Farmers built stone walls around the sheep’s grazing areas and la dehesa was born (dehesa originates from the Latin word defensa for defense). Laws that were passed to protect the land, such as making it illegal to remove grass, helped to preserve the ecosystem. And while the wool industry eventually fell out of fashion, what remained were the sparse oaks, grasses, seeds, grains, and acorns — perfect for black Iberian pigs. 

Today,  the taste of jamón ibérico is the taste of la dehesa. The iconic ham’s flavor has been unlocked by farmers working harmoniously with the land — letting the pigs graze freely, and refraining from disturbing the established ecosystem. Meat companies have tried to replicate jamón ibérico using commercial practices, such as cramming the pigs in tight spaces, or feeding them industrial grain along with acorns, but they have not been able to capture the taste of the meat.

Grazing and Nutrition

The defining factor of jamón ibérico is the pigs’ strict acorn diet. The local oak trees, Cork and Holm, produce sweet acorns which provide healthy nutrients and fatten the pigs.

As the livestock scour the four to five acres allocated per pig, the exercise oxygenates their muscles, creating a deeper flavor and spaces within the muscles for deposits of healthy fat, something impossible in commercial livestock, as animals are not allowed to roam freely. These fat deposits eventually house high amounts of the unsaturated, fatty “oleic acid” present in the acorns. In turn, when humans eat the pigs, they receive the benefits of oleic acid, a healthy fat that creates higher levels of HDL cholesterol which maintains a healthy heart.

In addition to healthy fat, the pigs are stockful of other nutrients, such as vitamins B1, B6, B12, and, especially, vitamin E, which helps to maintain healthy skin and eyes, also building defense against illness and infection. Jamón Ibérico’s content also makes it an antioxidant that can remove “free radicals” (waste substances produced by cells), which are increased by factors such as inflammation, excessive exposure to UV rays, pollution, and cigarette smoke. This contributes to “oxidative stress” that harms cells and bodily functions.

Curing Process and Preparation

So, after the pigs are fattened, slaughtered, and full of nutrients, how is the meat cured and prepared for consumption? The first step of the process is to bury the desired hind leg in a container of salt for fifteen to twenty days, depending on weight. This removes excess water from the meat, drying and preserving it. Next, the leg is often taken to an airy room, sometimes in mountain air, to soak in the Mediterranean climate. After hanging in this room for six to nine months, the ham develops an earthy, sometimes mountainous scent/flavor: a love note to la dehesa. Finally, the meat is transported to a cellar, where it will not reach  its peak flavor for at least two more years, meaning the entire process takes up to four years.

Legs are given a black tag — “Jamón Ibérico de Bellota”, meaning the pig is of the highest quality, raised on a strict diet of acorns. Then, they are shipped off to restaurants, specialty stores, and markets where razor-thin portions of the meat are cut by the means of a long, flexible knife. Each cut is precise and with the muscle (as opposed to against it), to preserve the meat as it was inside of the animal, giving every bite the intended ratio of muscle and fat.

Appearance, Taste, and Where to Find

After a long journey, the jamón is finally ready to eat. It appears purplish red in color with strands of white fat running through the cuts. The surface is glossy, a product of fat portions that melted during the curing process. Picking it up yields a trace of grease on the fingertips, but once eaten, the ultra-thin, nutty, tender meat melts in the mouth, leaving a deep umami taste due to the aging process (see prior article: “Umami: Your Fifth Sense of Taste”).

So… where can jamón ibérico be found? Well, of course, it is ubiquitous in Spain and Portugal. This summer I traveled the Iberian Peninsula and found the delicious meat everywhere: standalone, on pizzas, in pasta dishes, and more. It is hard to miss. However, in the United States, the ham is harder to come by. Your best bet is to order delivery online from Spanish importers. Some restaurants, though, offer the meat, such as Oloroso in Center City, Philadelphia. Specialty stores may carry it as well, but be warned, it costs a pretty penny! 

Overall, it’s worth it. Trust me. After all of la dehesa’s history, the plethora of acorns ingested by the pig, and the meat’s four-year curing process, it has to be… right?