Millions of years ago, glaciers carved out a scenic route in Alaska that is unable to be reached by cruise ships: the Inside Passage. A few summers ago, my family and I took a small boat with about 70 people – wittily nicknamed an “un-cruise” – through the Passage to witness its diverse wildlife and unbelievable scenery for ourselves.

One of our first experiences was viewing Sawyer Glacier in Tracy Arm. If you’re up for it, hop off of the boat onto a smaller boat to get closer, but not too close – if you’re lucky, you’ll get to witness a large piece of ice falling off of the glacier into the water.

In order to get even closer to the glaciers, most boats will make a stop in Scenery Cove, Thomas Bay at Baird Glacier, on which you can take a hike.  Just make sure you have proper hiking boots – a strange layer of mud that the guides called “boot-sucking” covered the glacier.  Because of this glacier’s barren, foreign appearance, you’ll feel like you’re on another planet.

Another hike you’ll want to take involves lots of mud, slippery surfaces, and climbing: the hike up Cascade Creek, still in Thomas Bay.  A smaller boat will take you straight to the trailhead on the shore.  This strenuous hike is 3.5 miles in length.

If you’ve had enough hiking, or if you just want to explore the Inner Passages in a different way, try kayaking.  Your boat will likely hold kayaks that the guides will take out each day on guided excursions.  Be prepared to get wet, not from falling overboard, but from lots and lots of misty rain.  On your kayak is where you’ll view some of the best wildlife, like bald eagles perched high in the treetops and harbor seals right next to your kayak. One of the best places in the Passage to kayak is Misty Fjords National Monument, where incredible waterfalls and cloudy, rounded peaks will surround you.

Once you’re done your kayak excursion, you might want even more wildlife.  You’re in luck: there is a point in the Passage accurately nicknamed “Whale Soup”. There, we sat for an hour in a bay filled with dozens and dozens of humpback whales. I will not forget this experience quickly. The whales come right up next to the boat, and you’ll even feel the mist spraying out of their blowholes.

A final and crucial part of your Inner Passages trip should be an all-day bear-viewing trip at Anan Creek, located in Wrangell.  A smaller boat will take you from the larger one to the creek. The boat ride alone is worth it – you’ll spot more bald eagles and harbor seals, plus fishing birds and gorgeous vistas.  When you pull up to the creek, you could spot a bear immediately – we happened to see a brown bear on the shore.  You’ll then take a half-mile path to the observatory, seeing countless bear markings along the way.  When you get to the top, you’ll be pretty close to lots and lots of black bears feeding on salmon jumping out of the creek. Only a short wall will separate you from these beautiful creatures in their natural habitat.

If you want to witness the unspoiled natural beauty and wildlife of Alaska, I strongly recommend its Inside Passage.  From hikes to kayak excursions to up-close bear viewing, you’ll be in awe.